D404 140-90-15 after 400 miles review

**Twister** · 08-05-2010, 01:03 AM

I don't know if to post this on the wrenching section or the mod's section, 'cuz like we all know the Reb was meant to roll on a 130-90-15, so feel free to relocate this thread.

I started with a Kenda 130-90-15 that came with the bike. I rolled this rubber donut for a good 3K miles plus whatever the PO gave it. They were really running out of life, One side still had about 1/16th on the center, but on the opposite side there was nothing on the center (explains the vibration)

Pulling out the wheel is pretty straight forward. Loosen the axle nut Jack the bike from the frame and not from the exauhst pipe. Release the brake rod and brake torque link arm. Loosen the axle adjuster lock nuts, remove the axle, move the chain to one side, jack up the bike a bit more, so the wheel can clear the license plate, roll out the wheel.

That's where the fun begins.

**Twister** · 08-05-2010, 01:14 AM

After the wheel is removed, the fun begins, I broke the bead with wood c-clamps. I used the tiny spoons you see on the picture, the old tube had several wrinkles, it had numbers on it stating it was for a 140-90-15, but the old Kenda was a 130, perhaps that induced the wrinkles. I had to give the inside of the wheel a good brush, since it had big ugly rust spots. Bare with me the bike is almost a quarter of acentry old and the chrome inside won't be seen, and I couldn't really see any scratches, I didn't wanted to use polish inside the wheel, 'cuz it was going to take forever.

**Twister** · 08-05-2010, 01:21 AM

This is what the used Kenda looks like next to the new Dunlop, both in the same wheel-less condition, standing on a flat surface.

**Twister** · 08-05-2010, 01:45 AM

I tried this stuff and so far 400 miles in to it does EXCACTLY what the manufactured claims, a glass smooth ride, without even using weights.

Remove the valve, connect the hose (included with the kit) tap them tinny beads slowly, so the hose to stem connection doesn't clog, screw the valve in, and add air you would normally do.

To try to avoid wrinkles -perhaps a futile try- on my brand spanking new tube I inflated and deflated the tires before installing the Dyna Beads, easy to do with an air sprayer attached to a compressor wih the valve off. It only took a few seconds. I don't know if that plus using the right size tube did remove the wrinkles, and I don't know if there is a practicall way to find out, but I still did it.

Swapping the rubbers was relatively easy with the spoons, I was just trying to be careful not to pinch the tube with them.

I guess I should have taken a bunch of pics, but I was a bit more concentrated on the tire than the phone, BTW sorry for the blurry pics, but the only camera I have is my phone.

**Twister** · 08-05-2010, 01:54 AM

This is waht the tires look next to each other, one mouned and aired up, the other one airless.

**Twister** · 08-05-2010, 02:10 AM

This is what it looks like. Bike rides SMOOTH now. It can go faster, while drafting cages; but without their "help" on an empty highway, plus going uphill, plus wind, well that's when it will not go over 70 on the speedo which is probably close to 64 on the GPS.

On a "crowded" highway, 2-3 seconds behing a cage, or passing a bunch of cages moving in the same direction it will do 88-90, which is 80-ish on the GPS, still some throttle left, but I don't want to push my luck. It is amazing the amount of energy you can save with drafting techniques. (like a flock of birds or planes on a V formation)

The only problem I had was on the first test drive I noticed the tire would rub on the tip of the bolts noted on the picture of the inside of the fender. Just added a few washers, 'cuz I got lazzy and didn't wanted to pull the dremel, It was a 5 minute fix. I appreciate any comments or suggestions.