Top Speed 47mph - Page 3 - Honda Rebel Forum
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post #21 of 92 Old 01-28-2017, 09:03 PM
 
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No,, looks to be out of your spark plug socket.
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post #22 of 92 Old 01-28-2017, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
 
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No,, looks to be out of your spark plug socket.
ahh i see, i just checked my other socket and sure enough it has one in it also! Thanks SoakedKarma

What about the loose fitting sparkplug boot? It doesn't have a snug fit, loose like it could blow off with enough wind.

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post #23 of 92 Old 01-28-2017, 10:07 PM
 
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The plug boot should be snug on top of the plug. There should be a metal clip at the inside top of the boot that grips the metal tip of the plug, and you should feel it sliding into place against some resistance.
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post #24 of 92 Old 01-28-2017, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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The plug boot should be snug on top of the plug. There should be a metal clip at the inside top of the boot that grips the metal tip of the plug, and you should feel it sliding into place against some resistance.
I seen the metal tip inside but its not snapping in for some reason, i tried to use the other sparkplug on that boot to no avail.

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post #25 of 92 Old 01-28-2017, 10:30 PM
 
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give it a squeeze with a pair of pliers so it will grip.
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post #26 of 92 Old 01-29-2017, 02:39 AM
 
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I emphatically disagree,, Rebel is notorious for rusted fuel tank..
I understand the intention to test with unrestricted fuel flow, but one does so at the peril of clogging carburetor with contamination..
I understand that, but the petcock has it's own filter. I wasn't suggesting running it for any length of time without a filter.

If the tank is badly rusted, it will need to be derusted. There are a lot of expensive chemicals out there for that purpose. For severe rust, I have always used undiluted muriatic acid. For a tank as small as the Rebel's, get enough to fill the tank. Remove the tank, place it where it is supported well, remove the petcock and plug the opening with something made of either strong plastic or steel. Muriatic acid will dissolve aluminum.

Before using acid, you have to get anything oily out of the tank, or it will act as a barrier between the rust and the acid. You can get some stuff called SuperClean at Wallyworld, also Home Depot has pretty much the same thing under a different brand. Be careful with this stuff. It will take the skin right off your hands. Wear rubber gloves while using it.

After washing out the tank with this stuff (pour in a gallon, slosh the tank around, then repeat several times) finally hose out the tank with a water hose till there is nothing left in it but water. Pour out all the water, and let the tank thoroughly dry before pouring in the acid. Muriatic acid has a strong reaction with rust, pour it in slowly, and keep your eyes covered. It may seem like it is boiling, which is normal. It is destroying the rust. Let it set about 24 hours, then pour it out, and again rinse out the tank with water. There should be no rust in it. Then pour in a qt. of oil and slosh it around until the whole inside of the tank is coated, to protect the tank from rerusting. Pour out the excess oil. It is not necessary to get all the oil out before putting gas in it.

I've never tried using nuts and bolts or pieces of chain to clean a tank. The reason is because of how much trouble I've had manually removing rust from exterior surfaces. You just about have to grind it off.

There are other rust removal chemicals out there, but muriatic acid is the cheapest and strongest. A couple of decades ago, I soaked most of a VW bug in it, a piece at the time. It worked wonders. If you use another chemical, the same prep work is still necessary. There must be nothing oily in the tank.
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post #27 of 92 Old 01-29-2017, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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I took out the petcock and it had a little bit of rust particles but the filter had much more rust. I'm not sure what the deal is with the air in the fuel line filter, someone said that is a problem?
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post #28 of 92 Old 01-29-2017, 07:36 PM
 
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ALL inline fuel filters show gasoline vapor (not air) in them. It does not interfere with the free flow of fuel to the carb. It has to do with the slight pressure drop through the filter medium and the extremely high vapor pressure of gasoline.
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post #29 of 92 Old 01-29-2017, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
 
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give it a squeeze with a pair of pliers so it will grip.
I used needle nose pliers inside and it cracked the outer part and still didn't squeeze it enough. Where can i get a new spark plug cap? I'm not seeing it on amazon.

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post #30 of 92 Old 01-29-2017, 09:02 PM
 
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I would get a new cap, maybe both, from a Honda dealer. I'd also pick up a couple of new plugs while your at it. What looks like an air pocket (it is mostly air) in the filter will not prevent the engine from getting gas, but part of the reason I suggested testing it without a filter is to eliminate that bubble. If you found rust in the petcock, then there may be rust in the carb as well. Sounds like you need to do a whole lot of cleaning.
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