Rebel won't start need help!! - Page 2 - Honda Rebel Forum
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post #11 of 32 Old 10-24-2016, 07:12 AM
 
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Originally Posted by cotton View Post
So scratch that, tried to go out and start it this morning, the battery has been charging all night and I put her in and there no lights or indicators lighting up...I'm guessing I just need a new battery but
Not even a dim headlight barely glowing? even a worn-out battery after an overnight charge should give some indication of a few volts in the system...




check the battery with a voltmeter

2009 Honda Rebel 250
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post #12 of 32 Old 10-24-2016, 02:25 PM
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Were the charging leads connected correctly, or possibly backwards? That would kill it instead of charging it.

1999 Honda Rebel CMX250C
2003 Harley Sportster 883 Hugger
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post #13 of 32 Old 11-05-2016, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
 
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Hey guys so just got a new brake system, the reservoir that attaches to the handlebars and the brake caliper on the actual wheels. My question is how do I switch the brake fluid when there's nothing in the line right now?
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post #14 of 32 Old 11-05-2016, 04:25 PM
 
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You just need to fill the system from the reservoir and the bleed all the air out of the system. You can start with the bleed nipple on the caliper loose so that air and fluid can come out of it. Slowly feed fluid to the reservoir and pump the brake lever (slowly so the fluid doesn't squirt upward all over the place). When fluid starts coming out of the bleed nipple you need to put a plastic tube on it and put the other end in a glass jar. Keep pumping fluid into the system being careful not to suck air into the piston at the master cylinder.
When pubbles stop coming out of the plastic tube the system may be properly bled of air. It will help to close the bleed nipple before releasing the brake lever to prevent air being sucked back into the system. When no bubbles are being pumped out close the nipple and try the brake. If properly bled the lever will feel hard and will not travel too far toward the handlebar. If there is air in the system, the lever will travel all the way to the handlebar with little resistance and no braking action.

Cover the paintwork on the bike with plastic to keep any spillage off the paint. Brake fluid eats paint.

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post #15 of 32 Old 11-06-2016, 09:13 AM
 
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buy a quart of brake fluid

96 VS800GL Suzuki Intruder, 87 CMX250C Rebel,
79 CB400 Hawk (sold 93), 75 CB350 (sold 83), 71 CB350 (stolen 74)
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post #16 of 32 Old 11-06-2016, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
 
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Awesome so I got the brake fluid in there but it seems like the brakes and preventing the wheel to move freely, it also looks like on of the Pistons isn't firing or pushing the pads. All in all I could go ride it but it just feels a lil sketchy. Not sure if there's supposed to be a little drag on the brake and wheel
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post #17 of 32 Old 11-06-2016, 01:43 PM
 
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You may have a stuck piston. Remove the caliper and place a wooden block between the pads. Try putting a little brake fluid on the exposed edge of the stuck piston as a lubricant. Then try to push the stuck piston into the caliper using a large flat screwdriver as a pry between the pads. Work the pistons loose and cycle them all the way in and out so the exposed edges of the pistons are clean.

If the brake is dragging, this is usually caused by seizing of the suspension pins that hold the caliper and keep it free to move side to side to equalize the disk pressure of both pads. Pull back the rubber boots on the pins and lube them with silicon grease so the calipers move freely back and forth. This will eliminate the binding and dragging you might be experiencing.

2004 Rebel 250, 2003 BMW K1200GT (roadburner), 2004 BMW R1200GS(all purpose),
1996 Ducati 900SS CR (California Bike), 1973 Norton Interstate (in a box in the basement)
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post #18 of 32 Old 11-07-2016, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
 
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Got the brake working thank you so much! Just installed my rear brake and turn lights as well with the front turn signals from blue collar bobber. After about a hour of toggling with the wires I got it hooked up right but my bike didn't make it far, once I was stopped and idling in first the bike would die so I got it back to my house and turned it off and on again only to have it die faster. I'm assuming the battery was killed due to the light testing but what do you guys think? Even without the lights on it would idle really low like it would die but hasn't happened till now. Thanks for the help!
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post #19 of 32 Old 11-07-2016, 11:08 PM
 
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@cotton Rebel ignition voltage is Totally Independent of battery power..
exciter coils which are separate part of Alternator Stator produce approx 60-90 Vac sent to the CDI and a trigger coil tells the CDI when to fire the plugs.. You can run a rebel without a battery DON'T as you can damage the alternator/volt regulator..

I would look elsewhere for idle problems..

96 VS800GL Suzuki Intruder, 87 CMX250C Rebel,
79 CB400 Hawk (sold 93), 75 CB350 (sold 83), 71 CB350 (stolen 74)
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post #20 of 32 Old 11-08-2016, 12:51 AM
 
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First test your battery with a multimeter should be above 12 volts or close To 13 then your pick up coil or icm or whatever but it's a blue and green wires that come up out of the left side of the motor you can follow them they need to a connector under the tank It should around 90 ohms but you have to learn to read a multimeter

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