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brake light help please

7K views 78 replies 5 participants last post by  greggsrebel 
#1 ·
Ok first thanks to everyone that answered my question on the green gasket inside the left cover. Now this one.. I think I am about to close a deal on this bike a 2012 rebel.. now the hold up... when checking the bike out.. the brake lights seem to just stay on. does not matter if you press front or rear brake,, they stay on.. no change... Any ideas.. from what people I know have said without them seeing the bike.. the brake switch (is there one or two) and or something to do with a adjustment on rear brake or spring.. also this is stalling the deal.. what is the max this might cost me to repair? The bike was lightly dropped by previous owner in drive way... thinking that caused whatever the damage is...
 
#67 ·
Good pics Gregg, that all looks normal.

The actuator spring looks right and is connected correctly in the right holes. The only thing the looks odd is the hook on the end of the spring connected to the switch. Mine is U shaped and maybe a little longer extension. Yours looks more V shaped like it may have been bent and removed, and put back at some point, but you may have done that, I just don't remember you mentioning it.

The rear brake adjustment nut looks like it is loose and has gap between it and the actuator lever bushing, but I can't be sure from the photo. I would expect it to possibly be loose after adjusting the pedal stop.

OK, now that you know your brake light works, do you want to try to get the brakes and the light switch adjusted to work together correctly or are you going to get someone else to help you with that?

BTW, did you determine if the correct filaments were lit in the bulb (brightest for the brake), or if they were crossed. I don't think I ever heard the answer to that, of course I didn't ever hear any answers to most of the questions I asked.
 
#68 · (Edited)
I am ready for more help please... I really want to get it right and then figure out choke next... but want to get this right first...


I responded to all your questions below in bold>


The actuator spring looks right and is connected correctly in the right holes. The only thing the looks odd is the hook on the end of the spring connected to the switch. Mine is U shaped and maybe a little longer extension. Yours looks more V shaped like it may have been bent and removed, and put back at some point, but you may have done that, I just don't remember you mentioning it.
I think you are right it is bent a little I probably did that...

The rear brake adjustment nut looks like it is loose and has gap between it and the actuator lever bushing, but I can't be sure from the photo. I would expect it to possibly be loose after adjusting the pedal stop.
This I might need help with...do not think it is loose...
OK, now that you know your brake light works, do you want to try to get the brakes and the light switch adjusted to work together correctly or are you going to get someone else to help you with that?
I would like more help please.

BTW, did you determine if the correct filaments were lit in the bulb (brightest for the brake), or if they were crossed. I don't think I ever heard the answer to that, of course I didn't ever hear any answers to most of the questions I asked.
The brightest filament lights when brake is pushed and turns off when neither brake is pressed.
 
#69 · (Edited)
Good, I will try to help as best I can, but you have to help me too. Try to respond like you did above to each step or instruction just so I know that you are understanding the instruction, and have completed it. This will make it go faster and keep me from getting frustrated at having to repeat things that you may have already done. If you don't understand an instruction it is OK to say so or ask more questions. I don't mind explaining things twice if you don't understand, but I won't do it just because you skipped or ignored half the steps. Just show me the respect that the amount of effort I'm putting into this deserves, and try not to make it any harder. OK?

First do you have access to a service manual, and if so is it OEM or an aftermarket brand? If not you probably want to think about getting one as you will probably need it in order to maintain this bike, and particularly to learn how to maintain this bike. The pictures, drawings, and diagrams alone are worth the price.

Second, did you ever go back and read this entire thread from start to finish like I asked? If so, do you now have a better understanding of what we were trying to accomplish, how many times you were told the same thing by various posters, and why I eventually got frustrated at repeating myself? If you have not, then please read it, both my responses and your responses. Try to put yourself in my shoes, and then let me know what you think. If I am at fault, or did a bad job of explaining things, or need to change the way I respond in order to help you better, please tell me. I am always open to advice on how to do a better job. If you are just too impatient to focus, and skip ahead to get finished quicker, then we have to work on that.

Maybe if we knew a little more about each other it would help the communications. I am a 62 year old retired mechanical engineer. I am originally a South Carolina ******* who grew up on a farm working on tractors, trucks, and every kind of piece of equipment that you could imagine from combines to balers, planters, cultivators, mowers, harrows, bulldozers, etc. including tinkering with tools and chainsaws, sports cars, race cars, wankel engines, race boats, 4 wheelers, dirt bikes, and later motorcycles. My father was an auto mechanic before he was a farmer, My brother was also an auto mechanic, actually one of the Mr Goodwrench mechanics on the GM TV commercials, then owned his own shop, and now teaches auto mechanics at Piedmont Technical College. I graduated from Clemson University in 1976, with a BSME, and accepted a job with McDonnell Douglas Aircraft designing airplane parts. However life throws you curves sometimes, and my father died the month that I graduated from college. Plans changed, I didn't go to St. Louis, but I ran the farm, and took care of Mom for a few years. I regrettably made the decision to sell most of the farm, and put the money in the bank for Mom, when my sister graduated from Clemson and came back home, so she could more easily take care of Mom. I then went to work closer to home for a pump manufacturing company in Augusta Ga. I was a test engineer, design engineer, applications engineer, sales engineer, hydraulic lab manager, nuclear safety officer, quality control manager, field service manager, warranty manager, regional sales manager, technical service manager, and probably some more hats that I forgot over 27 years with that company. I have lived in Dallas and Aspen, and traveled to almost every country in the world, selling, installing, and troubleshooting problems with pumps, motors, gearboxes, pipelines, pumping systems, automatic controls, and other mining equipment. I have published numerous technical papers, a couple of books, edited the Hydraulic Institute Standards for Centrifugal Pumps and Testing, and taught fluid mechanics, pump and pipeline testing, and hydraulic transport of solids in pipelines. I also owned my own business for awhile in Aspen building post and beam ski chalets as a general contractor. I am now a retired Georgia ******* living in a very small rural town where my wife grew up. I play with my grandson, hunt, fish, tinker, "work" as a gentleman farmer, go to Clemson football games, play on the computer, and occasionally do some consulting if someone is willing to pay enough.

I know that seems like a lot, but it is hard to try to put a whole life into one paragraph. Now maybe you can tell me about yourself, some background, and what you do, or did, or want to do, or like to do. I'm sure we can find something to relate to.
 
#75 · (Edited)
Really Dudeman?
I don't know who you think you are, but yelling at, demanding and chastising other members on the boards doesn't fly with me.
You are dealing with a vast amount of members here that range from beginners to experts...not everyone thinks the way you do, nor does everyone have the knowledge that you claim you do.
You have been doing nothing but belittling Greggsrebel almost from the first post.
If someone doesn't understand something, you have to take the time to explain it in a way that will be understood, not just getting on your high horse and proclaiming this and that and threatening that you won't "play anymore".
He is not your child, he is a member that needs help and doesn't need the garbage you have been throwing at him.
Back in the day, you would have been tossed off the board, or at least given a stern talking to by a mod...
I suggest you back off, rethink how you are speaking to and treating other members before shooting your mouth off again.
You are not impressing anybody with your iron fist, and unfiltered mouth.
Take a step back and think about how you would feel if you were responded to in the same way you treat others.
 
#71 · (Edited)
#1. Good there are probably instructions in there for adjusting brakes and brake lights, maybe even in both. Look in the maintenance section as well as the rear wheel and brake section.

#2. Thanks, I appreciate that. I had hoped for a little more response and feedback, but whatever.

#3. OK, that is your prerogative

Free-play in the brake pedal needs to be 3/4" at the very end. You should be able to push the brake pedal 3/4" before any back pressure is felt., and pressure should begin as soon as it gets to 3/4".

The brake light should be off during the 3/4" and come on at the same time that the brake begins to come on. You know now how to adjust it.

The brake is adjusted by the grey plastic nut on the end of the linkage rod. I usually unscrew the nut first until it is very loose. Then push the spring back toward the front of the bike so that it does not press on the brake actuator lever. The lever should be free to move back and forth now and find it's at rest condition.The lever is attached to a cam which will apply the brakes in either direction whether it is pushed or pulled. You want to find the spot where the cam is loose and not applying the brakes in either direction.

Now try to hold the lever in that position or mark the position so you can screw the plastic nut up against the bushing. You have to move the lever forward a little to get the nut into place where it needs to be, and then move the lever back to where you want it. This may take a little trial and error, to get the rounded face of the nut tight against the bushing, and the lever in position where the cam is free.

Now release the spring and let it push the lever bushing back against the nut. This is what keeps the adjustment nut from moving. If the spring is not pushing the bushing tight against the nut, let me know and we will have to adjust something else.

Now try the brake pedal. How much free play do you have at the end of the pedal? How far can you push the pedal before it begins to pressure the brake? How far can you push it before you can't roll the bike, i.e.the rear brake is preventing the tire from turning when you try to push the bike? How far do you push it before the brake light comes on?

Report back with the measurements when you get it adjusted.
 
#73 ·
You may want to hold off on that until you get the brakes adjusted. You may have to move that pedal stop again, and you may have to bend that switch bracket for the brake light, or replace the spring. Hopefully not, but you had to go way out of spec to get the brake light to go off. You may have to go back some to get the pedal to fit you and the brakes adjusted. It would be a shame to put them on and then have to take them back off.
 
#77 ·
ok had a few minutes today, stopped out in the garage... The brakes lights seem to be coming on fine now.. slightly early around 3/4 of an inch... but that should be fine I can adjust slightly once I am used to it...


The brakes are applying right around 1 inch to an 1 1/4... so that also seems ok.. going to throw back together and if slight adjustments are needed after riding will take care of...


everyone that dropped a line thanks... will be moving to my next issue tomorrow will start new thread once I am sure it is an issue... need to take for a spin...thanks again...
 
#78 ·
Great news. Enjoy your ride, just be a little cautious at first until you test the brakes out well and be sure they are working correctly.
 
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