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View Full Version : Neutral Question/Tensioner Bolts????


ninety8problems
06-23-2007, 01:54 AM
Tonite, I modified my brake light position along with my license plate position. I bolted them on to the looooooong bolt and (2) nuts that are located at the very rear of the frame (on the bottom)...about 8 inches up from the ground.

My novice experience told me that this might not be a "part" that I would want to bolt onto and tighten, but I did anyhow...not even being that sure of its function on the bike.

What I noticed is that I am now not able to (walk) reverse the bike in neutral or any other gear with the clutch in. Was it the rear brake tensioner that I tightened? I am kinda at a loss, but I'm sure there is someone out there who can enlighten me.

The bolts that I am referring to are located at the very end of the bottom part of the frame on both sides. What are the purpose of these bolts? Was this a rear brake tension bolt?

Thanks for any help...

GearJammer
06-23-2007, 10:00 AM
Am trying to picture this from your description.....

For reference, on the right side of the bike, when you push down on the rear brake pedal, you'll notice the long rear brake rod actuate. The adjusting nut for the rear brake is at the very end of the single rod/right side of bike only.

You may be referring to the chain adjusters ? The swingarm pivots from it's pivot bolt where it attaches to the main frame....rear of motor, bottom & in front of rear wheel. The swingarm then extends rearwards on both sides of the rear wheel, bottom shock mounts are on the top side of the swingarm "arms". At the very end of the swingarm on either side of the rear wheel are the chain adjusters. If you only tightened up on ONE side adjuster, it's possible that it cocked the rear wheel up against the inner surface of the swingarm, causing the rear wheel to also be cocked & possibly "locked" against the inner surface of the swingarm.

Please be VERY careful with those chain adjusters as too much tension on them can cause the threaded portion to actually snap or pull out.

If this is what you've done, then you definitely would want to relocate the taillight/license plate to another area & realign the rear wheel by equalizing the chain adjusters on both sides to attain the proper drive chain tension.

ninety8problems
06-23-2007, 10:08 AM
Thanks GJ. I think it was definitely the right side chain adjuster that I tightened. The bike seemed to ride completely fine after the tightening, except the fact that I could not walk reverse it in neutral.

I will take another look at it this morning and keep you posted.

ninety8problems
06-23-2007, 10:33 AM
GJ, great advice.

I released the tension on the chain adjuster nuts/bolt, and the bike moved in neutral.

One thing I did notice, however, is that the right side axle nut was fairly loose...well, definitely not tight. How tight should that axle nut be? Should it be somewhat loose or does it need to be tightened pretty good?

My current work-around is this...

Since there are 2 nuts on the chain adjuster bolt, I simply loosened up the inner nut to provide the rear wheel movement that I was looking for. I then mounted the tail light/license bracket back onto the bolt between the inner nut and the outer nut. This way, I can still maintain the chain tension that I need with the inner nut, while still being able to secure the bracket with the outer nut. It seems to be doing the trick at the moment.

GearJammer
06-23-2007, 11:04 AM
O.K.......it sounds like you're back in business ;)

For normal chain adjust:

Loosen that axle nut you mentioned. This allows the axle to be moved by the chain adjusters. The 2 nuts on the chain adjusters: Outer nut is the locknut/jam-nut. Inner nut is the actual adjusting nut. Once each side is adjusted for proper chain tension (you can use the scale on either side of the adjusters as a guide. The indicator on both scales should be equal), just snug up the locknuts/jam-nuts, then tighten the axle nut. Someone may provide the actual torque spec for the axle nut. On the 450 Reb, it's around 65-70 ft. lbs. (roughly), but yes, that axle nut definitely wants to be pretty dang tight. Once everything is adjusted & tightened, re-check the chain tension to insure that it's still within normal limits......1/2" slack at mid-point in chain when pushing it up with your finger should be a safe ballpark measure.

Since you're installing the taillight/license plate mount BETWEEN the adjusting nut & the locknut/jam-nut, you'll probably be O.K. If you want a little added insurance, you can put another locknut/jam-nut behind the furthest one out as you simply want to prevent the inner adjusting nut from backing off.

ninety8problems
06-23-2007, 12:13 PM
Excellent! We are rockin' now!

I will post a link to the mods I have made to the bike since I have gotten it. I really love the work that Big J had done to it, but I wanted to add a little bit of my own touch just to make it "mine".

http://blackyanquirebelmotorcycleclub.blogspot.com/

I haven't taken pictures of the current setup, but these pics come close. I had put some ape hangers on it, but I removed them for the moment. I am kinda liking the drag bars that Big J had put on it.

By the way, what's the "common law" on rear fenders? Are they legally required?

I have completely removed the rear fender and repositioned the turning signal lights to the rear of the seat mount. I have also taken the springs out from under the custom seat that is on the bike. I wanted to give it a bit of a low rider feel. That being said, my butt is about 2 inches away from the tire!

The last change I need to make is to have some custom forward controls made because my 6'3" frame is taking some abuse in the hips/legs. I know that most forward controls claim to give you an extra 3", but I might need another 5 to 6".

GearJammer
06-23-2007, 02:05 PM
Required items vary by state. In Arizona, the law states "must have one fender", so theoretically, one could run a front fender & no rear fender. My son had temporarily removed both fenders until I reminded him that it could cause an instant pullover, LOL!

You'll need to inquire what the reg is in Georgia.

I don't run front fenders on any of my bikes & it gets "interesting" when it rains or simply going thru standing water on the street ;) Same will apply with no rear fender or a radically bobbed rear fender....water spray known as "rooster tails" landing on the rider's back.....hehehe....

Have fun & Ride Safe!

jsonder
06-24-2007, 01:49 PM
Rear axle nut torque spec = 88 N.m or 65 ft.lb

;-)