View Full Version : Rear Wheel Removal
septimus
10-23-2006, 12:13 PM
Hii there,
Is anyone know how to remover the Rear Wheel of my 125 rebel?
Im assume that its the same way as for bigger bikes.
Anything with or without picture will be great.
Many thanks
GearJammer
10-23-2006, 07:00 PM
I haven't removed the rear wheel from either the 250 Rebel when I owned it or the 450 Rebel yet, but will take a shot at it & if I make a mistake, hopefully someone will correct me...... 8)
Safely jack up the bike to lift the rear wheel off the ground.
Loosen axle nut.
Loosen the chain adjusters so that you can push the rear wheel slightly forward.
Remove master link from final drive chain, remove chain.
Disconnect the rear brake rod from the rear brake drum.
Here's the part where I'm unsure, so please someone help me if I screw this up, LMAO!
On the Triumphs, the chain adjusters are not an issue & the rear wheel with axle just pull right off the back all together. I'm not sure about the chain adjusters on your bike and they "might" be installed on the axle itself, inside the swingarm section. If this is the case, you may have to pull the axle out in order to drop the rear wheel.
septimus
10-24-2006, 12:04 PM
Hi there,
Many thanks for your help.
The reason for removing the wheel is basically to change some broken spokes ( 5 ). Do I realy have to remove the wheel in order to replace the broken spokes with new one?
Many thanks
GearJammer
10-24-2006, 08:53 PM
Unfortunately.......yes. You'll also have to remove the tire and tube from the wheel itself as the spokes go from the hub and then thru the rim of the wheel & are held in place by spoke nuts.
septimus
10-25-2006, 04:16 AM
All the broken spokes can be remove easily by unscrew it. It is not an old wheel. cant I just unscrew the broken and than screw the new ones
Many thanks
GearJammer
10-25-2006, 11:24 AM
Hmmmm...........I'm no expert & there may be something about your newer wheel that I'm not familiar with, but I'd think it wouldn't be that easy.....As always, if I'm incorrect here, someone please let me know as I enjoy learning as well.....
When you look at the rim where the spokes go in, is there a short squared piece that you're able to unscrew the spoke from ? That would be the outside end of the spoke-nut, squared-off in order to allow adjustment of the spoke tension by using a small wrench (anywhere from 4mm-7mm or thereabouts)
If you've removed the broken spoke but that spoke-nut hasn't fallen inside the wheel, it might be being held in place by pressure from the tire tube and rim strip inside.
If you're able to install the new spoke by simply screwing them into the spoke-nuts, there's also the danger of puncturing the tire tube when you go to adjust the tension on the new spoke, as the spoke-END may go beyond what you can't see and tear the tube. The spoke-nut is threaded as well as open/straight-thru & the threaded end of the spoke can often extend beyond the spoke-nut, endangering the tire tube. Normally, after installing new spokes, any excess of the spoke-end on the inside of the tire is ground off & the added protection of the rim strip covers the spoke-ends all the way around the inside of the rim to prevent internal puncture.
You might ask a local indie shop about this & if they concur, you might consider asking them how much they'd charge to do the spoke replacement for you as there's also the need to adjust the spoke tension all the way around the wheel for proper trueing of the wheel.
IF you are able to manage getting the new spokes in without any problems (I'm not encouraging you to try it the way you've suggested as I'd hate to see you end up puncturing the tire tube with the added expense & frustration).......but IF you were able to get them in safely, you'd want to check the tension of ALL spokes.
They want to be uniform in tension. If you pluck the spoke with your finger or lightly tap a wrench on the spoke to hear the resonance/sound like a musical instrument, the "note" would be like a High C (no kidding, it's similar to stretching a guitar string or whatever)
GearJammer
10-25-2006, 11:40 AM
Quick question: Do you know if your tire is tubed or tubeless ? This may or may not change things here......
septimus
10-25-2006, 05:03 PM
Hi there,
Im not so sure about the type of tyre ive got on my bike.
Well tell you the true im trying to save some money here...Im based in the uk and to get someone to change the spokes gonna cost me £80 while if ill do it my self it will be 15£. however, im planning on chaging it my self and than let someone to tune it for me, this will cost me £20 so all together its will be much cheaper and less time and the time factor is very important at the moment as I realy want to sell the bike and get a beautifull rebel 450cc that came across 6 days ago....I dont wont to miss this deal! Im sure you'll understand:)
Many thanks
GearJammer
10-25-2006, 07:43 PM
Yes, I absolutely understand about wanting to sell the 125 to get the 450 :wink: I understand so well that if you could sell the 125 "as is" & make enough to get the 450, I'd do it as soon as possible, LOL!
But, also understanding your dilema, wanted to share something I learned just today. Got back from a ride on the 450 (tubeless tires), was getting some stuff out of the saddlebags & glanced down at the rear wheel.......thought to myself "How cool!"....checked the front wheel and the same thing. With the tubeless tires on the 450 Rebel, the spokes are installed in the reverse positions than other wheels I'm used to. On the 450 Reb, the spoke goes thru the rim side & the spoke-nuts are on the hub AND openly accessible. It definitely looks like the spokes can be changed without having to remove the wheel or the tire! Excellent design & it sure would be nice if all spoked wheels were designed this way!
Here's the thing tho'.......I don't know if the wheels on your 125 are tubeless or not. If you look at the sidewall of the tire, it should actually say "Tubeless", if indeed it is........
If it's not, then you're probably looking at the drudgery explained in the previous posts.....Please check it out & let us know what the tire says (if anything)......
septimus
10-27-2006, 10:42 AM
Hello again,
Many thanks for your quick reply.
The wheels are indeed a Tubless wheel......
but there are a new developments regarding the spokes.
I order 6 spokes from main honda dealer for my rear wheel and they sent me 6 spokes for the front wheel. its seems that they have aproblem with this item and they ask me to wait for 21 days untill they will figure out whats going on...
they said something about EI number (not sure).
So with all my frustrations I removed the rear wheel by myself (was quite easy, although there is one small part which Im not sure where it came from....Hope its not important :oops: ) and im taking the wheel to the other side of london which is about 45 min away to respoke and tune it. this will cost me about £90......and as a true english man will say 'Bloody hell'!
thanks
GearJammer
10-27-2006, 11:26 AM
With the tire being tubeless, do the spokes look as described above for the 450, with EASY access to the spokes on the wheel without having to remove the tire ?
If so, before taking it to the shop, you might check with other dealers and/or local indie shops to see if they might possibly have the needed rear spokes in stock.
Also, in regards to the 70 pds. for re-spoking & "tune".......by "tune", do you mean "tuning/trueing" the rear wheel ? Or does the price also include a "motor tune" ?
If this price is all for wheel work only, you might also consider this.......I normally wouldn't recommend used spokes, but in this case & after seeing how the 450 Rebel spokes are installed, I might chance it.......Are there any motorcycle boneyards (junkyards) in your area that would have some 125's for salvage ? You might be able to cherry-pick some good spokes off a salvage bike, install 'em on your 125 & tension the spokes yourself. You want the spokes tight (to the point of relative uniform resonance when plucking the spokes) but NOT over-tight. If you "pinch" 2 crossing spokes at the "x", there should be just a very little give/flex. If after tensioning the spokes, the wheel turns true on a trueing stand (you can prop the wheel on crates with the axle ends riding on each crate) Securely hold the axle at each end & spin the wheel, looking to insure that it rotates in a straight path without any wandering side to side. If you can achieve this, the wheel would probably be O.K. to remount & save the bucks.
GearJammer
10-27-2006, 11:45 AM
Have you tried this place for new spokes ?
www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/
septimus
10-27-2006, 12:45 PM
Yes I did try, they said that I need to send a sample and it will take between 1-2 weeks.......
Are you based in uk as well?
GearJammer
10-27-2006, 08:02 PM
Nope.......Arizona here. Or as a bud's old girlfriend from out of state used to call it, ArizonIa.....hehehe....
Met one of your countrymen here this past summer, very good people! He's mostly into the smaller displacement bikes for riding the twisties over there & we were rapping about my OL's CL175 that needed some parts at the time (bike has since been finished & sold) & he recommended David Silver Spares as one of the best outlets in the UK.
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